Printing photos the details

OK I’ve never quite figured out the many settings that Adobe Photoshop has for printing as I barely ever do it. First a few notes:

  1. If you want to print some favorites out of an Apple shared album, this is actually pretty hard. There is a like button for instance, but in Mac Photos there is no way to sort by Likes or even to see what people have liked, so if you. have a 500 photo album, it’s pretty useless as a feature. Instead, if you want others to pick photos for you, you need to basically have them create a new album or iMessage you the photos. There is a favorites button but it doesn’t work for shared albums, so yuck Apple!
  2. When you print with a fancy printer, you want to use the RAW data and not the Jpegs this is because Jpegs are 8 bit color and the RAWs are typically 12-14 bit. Many of the fancy printers support greater than 8 bit printing, so load up the photos in a TIFF and then make sure to click Send 16 bit data
  3. Finally you need to understand what Black point compensation is, it’s pretty technical, but the TL;dr is that you should normally check it, it makes sure that at dark color levels, the dark colors don’t get clipped to pure black.
  4. Then there is the final parameter the mysterious color management, the TL;dr is that you normally leave it at Relative Colormetric but for some photos with lots of saturation where there are lots of out of gamut colors, you can try Perceptual

And of course make sure to let Photoshop manage the colors and pick the right color profile for your paper, use the ICC decoder ring to figure it out.

10TB Drives and Synology DS-2413+ and DS-1812+

Well Synology has just been awesome with compatibility and updates, but hitting the first signs of obsolescence. It looks like Synology systems older than June 2014 have an 8TB hard disk limit. I know, I know, that seems like lots of capacity, but it’s not well documented if you look at the Synology compatibility lists you can see this note. So beware as you buy drives.

And as always have a backup plan and run with some sort of hard drive backup. For us what we are doing is putting 10TB drives into the DS-2413+ and then migrating the smaller disks (6TB and so on) down to the older models.

I also can’t find compatibility data for Drobo but they’ve been handling up to 8TB well.

In terms of what drives to get here’s a reminder:

  1. Use a reputable vendor, when you buy from Amazon make sure you are actually getting it from them. Just bought a set and they came in hand bubble wrap as they were probably broken up from an OEM kit.
  2. Get a drive with a five year warranty, it may cost more, but you aren’t Backblaze, do you really really want to deal with rebuilding your array.
  3. Look for high ratings particularly at Newegg, the Amazon reviews are pretty useless because they combine lots of product categories and of course there are many spammers there.

Given that here are some drives to look at:

  1. Seagate Enterprise Capacity 512e. At $410 it’s a relative steal, with prices around $40/TB being good. This is really a 4K driver underneath but emulations 512 byte sectors, amazingly it’s right now cheaper than the Iron Wolf but has 2.5M hours MTBF and a five year warranty.
  2. Seagate Iron Wolf Pro. This is a NAS drive at $420 at Newegge also 7200 but has the 5 year warranty and 1.2M MTBF
  3. Seagate Iron Wolf. Wow these are cheap at $367 at Newegg and they are faster 7200 rpm, but only have a 3 year warranty and 1M hour MTBF, but are designed for 24/7 use.

Canon 400mm f/2.8l ii is usm and Canon 600MM F/4L II IS USM

Wow these are some lenses, thanks first of all to lensrentals.com, they are just awesome. I needed these lense for shooting a sailing regatta that was probably 1km away, it’s tough to get shots like this, but at least the boats are moving slow, so I could use ultra high resolution bodies (the Canon 5DS R and the Sony A7R II).

The really tough choice was picking lenses, I have always loved the Nikon 200 F/2 as it was just so clear and wonderful two years ago and for some reason I didn’t have very fond memories of the Canon 300mm F/2.8 II. The main reason is that you lose quite a bit of image quality with a 2x teleconverter I think,

This time I wanted to see if the Metabones E to EF adapter was a choice, so off to Canon I went. Wow what an experience. First of all, the Canon 5DS R really worked well with the 600MM F/4L and 1.4x extender mainly because conditions were super bright and of course this camera is very fast. I was able to shoot at ISO 200 and even wide open at f/5.6 this lense was tack sharp. That’s quite a bit of reach at 840MM (with full frame 35mm, that’s a 24x zoom). This is quite a lense as DxO says it achieves 37MP with the 50MP sensor on the 5DS R.

And with so many pixels, even with a crop by another 2-4x (so that’s an effective 48-96x zoom), the photos were very usable. The autofocus by the way worked very well, with AI Servo on the Canon or the equivalent on the Sony, object tracking worked really well.

Finally, we also used the Metabones with a Sony A7R II, this was a little more difficult because the Metabones seemed to have trouble connecting problem to the  A7R. In fact, lens rentals doesn’t recommend it for professional shoots and I can see why. When it was working properly though (required some jiggle of the the adapter and rebooting the adapter by removing the camera), the image quality was excellent. Theoretically the 42MP vs 50MP should have made a difference but I couldn’t see it.

One disappointment was that I never quite got the video mode of the A7R to work, it is supposed to automatically stabilize through the metabones, but in looking at the video, I couldn’t quite get it to work.

Finally, if you are going to use lenses like this, the Wembley Sidewinder is a must have, it converts your tripod and makes it easy to move a big heavy lenses set like this. And make sure you bring a beefy tripod and put a weight on it, with this kind of zoom, even someone walking causes vibration. I had both image stabilization turned on and also shot at 1/800 and this seemed to work.

Update on cool biking gear

OK, I’ve been updated to a new bike and here are some notes:

  1. The recommendations on tires have changed quite a bit. I used to ride 23mm at 110 psi, but now folks are recommending a wider 25mm at 90 psi, apparently it’s about the same footprint on the road and much more stable.
  2. Heart rate monitors. Wow these have really improved, while you can still wear a chest strap (they have essentially infinite battery life), the new Scosche Rhythem+ is just $80 and has a simple rechargeable battery that lasts 8 hours. Way more comfortable to have an arm band than something that is around your chest.
  3. Power meters. DC Rainmaker was right, the Powertap P1 pedals are expensive, but boy are they easy to setup and they just use a standard lithium AAA battery. Setup with the old Garmin 800 was  a snap.
  4. Shimano automatic shifting, well the guys in the peloton don’t need it, but with a new battery and a firmware update. You do need a Windows machine to do this, now you just hit the right paddles to go up and down the gears and the front derailleur shifts automatically for you. Nice and no more cross chaining.
  5. Be careful how you leave your bike, if you accidentally leave the shift lever against a wall, it will drain the battery of the Di2. You are warned 🙂
  6. While most folks still use water bottles, I find the trusty dusty Camelbak Mule still more convenient and probably more aero, plus your bike looks way cooler without cages.

Things left to do:

  1. Shimano D-fly Di2 transmitter. The latest firmware let’s you install wireless transmitter that speaks ANT+ and Bluetooth, so the shifting system can tell your bike computer what gear you are in. It’s a little complicated to get the parts, but Shimano has a good list. The EW-WU101 is the variant that connects at the rear derailleur, you take it from basically hook it inline. This works because the two connectors are on the same side. The EW-WU111 is for internal mounting inside the frame so the connectors are opposite each other. You also need a newer battery the DN101 because it has the firmware to manage this and it needs more memory.
  2. New maps for the Garmin 800, turns out you don’t have to pay for maps, you can use Open Street Maps. It’s a little clumsy, but DC Rainmaker describes it pretty well, someone is running a server which scrapes and reformats Open Street Maps, go to Garmin.openstreetmap.nl and select bicycle map, then choose the segments you want. You will get an email later with the location of a huge file. You then copy the DMG into your SD card in the Garmin directory and you should have it on your Garmin 800 at least.
  3. Cycle computer. You do need a new Garmin like the 810 to actually see the data however. Not surprising since the Garmin 800 is eight years old, but it does work pretty well.

LG C6 55 inch would make an awesome PC monitor

http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/9to5macToys/~3/PMN-xAleGhw/ the LG 55 C6 is an incredible OLED screen. At $1400 it’s expensive but nearly 40% off its initial price. It’s kind of the perfect gamers screen. Talk about immersive! Main issue is getting one that has a defect. Amazon is awesome because they will just pick one up and give u a new one. Or Best Buy because they have a local store With a good policy but it’s tempting to get it drone Beach!

Lensrentals review of filters

https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2017/06/the-comprehensive-ranking-of-the-major-uv-filters-on-the-market/ everything you need to know about filters to protect your lense front end. I normally get the B+W MRC Clear Transparent which is a nice $50 choice.

It maybe shouldn’t be surprising but if you want to protect your front end, you need at least a $50 piece of glass and not an el cheapo $10 filter

Canon paper decoder ring and Alford Galerie Smooth Pearl on Canon iP100 with GL1

Seems like every year (?!) when I do print, I have to remember how to get the profiles right. With an old Canon iP100, the question is how to get a nice color, so here is the mapping:

The Paper codes

They have a two digit paper code system from lowest to highest quality

  • MP. Matte Paper
  • GL. Photo Paper Glossy (I and II)
  • SP. Photo Paper Plus Glossy
  • SG. Photo Paper Semi Glossy
  • PR. Photo Paper Pro (I and II)
  • PT. Photo Paper Pro Platinum

Then there is the quality code which is lower the better

So by elimination, there is no correct ICC profile for this combination, so trying this first with third party ink. This is a bad idea because without the chip, it always reports full ink, so even if all the ink is dry it doesn’t work. Main note, use standard Canon ink.

Now figuring out which color profile works but the big issue is having a good printer cartridge. We had errors with a new Canon color cartridge and the cheap OEM knockoffs do not report their ink levels correctly so the first time

  • The PR1 on Mac Photos and DxO come out very light and red
  • Photoshop with Galerie for Canon Pro9000 comes out super saturated like a Fujifilm or Kodachrome, but is much better. The Galerie profiles are carefully coded, so you know how to set the many Photoshop parameters
  • The PR1 for iP100 comes out very dark and saturated but this is on the unreliable third party ink.
  • The GL2 also has a red cast on the Galerie paper with Perceptual and Relative colorimetric.
  • SP2/SG2 looks the closest with perceptual and black point compensation but it still very read

So we tried this with both HP Glossy and also Alford Galerie and found that with Photoshop that GL1 did work

  • GL3 was what was supposed to work from our last use five years (?!) ago and this seems OK, actually about the same as GL1
  • PR1 also seems to work

No recourse even from Tim Cook, so Looking hard at HP, Dell and Lenovo

Well the fragility of MacBook Pros has me looking for new laptop recommendations. I by the way did tweet to #tim_cook and apples executive support tram responded awesomely fast. 

The main news is that there is no recourse from what level 2 tech support says through that channel. Warranty decisions are made at the descretion of the local Apple Store manager is nothing that they are allowed to do. Net, net, better make sure to send Christmas cookies to your local Apple Store manager early and often if you’ve got a bunch of these. And make sure your purchases are aggregated in an Apple business account etc. 

In addition, short battery life and shallow keyboard, what’s a person to do who wants. Here’s a quick sweep of current thin and light notebooks that can work for a software developer. I used the same criteria as last years MacBook Pro 2015 with one exception (USB C). PC Magazine had a list. 

  1. Reliable and some sort of decent three year service plan (and with reasonable handling of accidental damage more along the lines of iPhone Applecare not MacBook policies)
  2. 4.5 pounds and not a gigantic brick of an adapter so overall
  3. Thin at 7-12mm or so not these big thick gaming notebooks that are 25mm
  4. At least 2.5k screen at 15 inches as 13 inches is too small for multiple windows imho. IPS bright screen. 
  5. 512TB SSD NVMe as disk is the big issue
  6. 16GB ram (ok 33GB is better but no current thin and light has it due to intel availability problems)
  7. At least 6-7 real hours of battery life (hopefully without the careful babying the mbp2016 needs)
  8. USB C charger. I admit it I’m kind of addicted to the idea that you don’t have to buy a proprietary charger (the one good idea from mbp16)
  9. High speed offboard. At least 10Gbps USB 3.1 supported ASP for fast attached SSD access and ideally future proofed to Thunderbolt 3  40Gbps

So here is what I’ve found. I think Mike will be happy. As an aside I think all these vendors should emulate what Mike Sievert et al at T-Mobile are doing. Have a friends and family discount and executive support team to go after influencers and flip them. Super impressive what they’ve done if yin watch Facebook et al. 

HP Laptops

Ok they definitely have reliability issues and you need a massive decoder ring. 

First you need to understand their fairly random (at least to me brand names). This is way more complicated than MacBook vs MacBook Pro. The net is

  1. Spectre. Their premium line. Most expensive. Latest technology. I guess you could call them MacBook Pro killers. 
  2. Envy. Their MacBook killer so thin and light with dedicated GPUs. 
  3. Elitebook. For big companies. They have biometrics etc. 
  4. ProBook. Small business and cheaper
  5. ZBook. For creatives. And no I don’t really understand what that means. But they are. If and heavy at 5.5 pounds plus with Nvidia GPUs 
  6. Notebook. Budget consumer machines. 
  7. Pavillion. Cheap spectres (wait I thought that is what an Envy is)
  8. Omen. Big loud and low battery life. In other words perfect for gamers. 
  9. Chromebooks. Even Cheap laptops running chrome. The so called student market. 
  10. Stream. Cheap laptops running windows. 

The model number of it has it has this decoder. If it says 440 this means

  1. The hundred digit is the series the higher the better so a 640 is better than a 440
  2. The tens digit is the size of the screen. So 14 is 4, 15 is 5
  3. Last digit is 0 for Intel and 5 for AMD

Then there is a modifier which is mainly features a developer doesn’t use too much:

  1. x360 means convertible notebook. The screen flips all the way around so u can use way. Not super useful for devs
  2. x2. A detachable screen like a SurfacePro and a iPad Pro competitor usually 
  3. t means a touch screen notebook

Finally to distinguish model Years the can be a G followed by the generation. Higher is better so a G5 means fifth generation. 

And really finally you want to look at their Applecare equivalents. Given the many reliability issues reported having a good warranty is crucial. They have 2 and 3 year warranties. And also have a accident policy. The $200 accident policy includes a feature. If you don’t use it you get your money back. How cool so that?

Best choices instead of MacBook Pro 15

Whew with that is a lot to know so here are the machines that meet the spec going ordered by newest units. So here are MacBook Pro competitors:

Best choices for MacBook Pro 13

The criteria here is a 13 inch screen with integrated graphics. Best for browsing and general web use

  • Lenovo Thinkpad Carbon X1. This is a 14″ laptop with integrated graphics and 22 hour battery life?!
  • Razer Blade (early 2017). Also 14″ but with gtx 1050. $2400 with 4K display. .7 x 25.6mm or 19mm. TB3 and USB 3.0. 10 hour battery. This is actually a great choice but has reliability and support problems. 

    MacBook Pros 2016 are super fragile screens beware of buying them

    Ok, I’ve had three cases now of MacBook Pro 2016 which have screen cracks from things that is should not. The repair cost is $700 and they will not cover it under AppleCare

    1. Closing your laptop on an Ethernet adapter. This will totally crack your screen and this is called accidental damage.
    2. Closing your laptop on your Apple ear plugs and this will crack it
    3. Dropping a laptop even with a case will cause a crack, even if there is a screen crack they will not fix anything like USB C or any motherboard problem because they claim it is damaged.

    Net, net, if you are committed to Apple you should also know that your repair bill are going to be super high. Recommendations are:

    1. Get a case for the thing.
    2. If anything breaks on your MacBook run to the store and get it fixed before the screen cracks.

    Net, net, with the battery life reduction and this warranty issue and the super high prices, I can’t recommend buying MacBook Pro’s anymore. The older machines are pretty good by the way and just as fast:

    1. so a good MacBook Pro 2015 and they are way more durable.
    2. A cheaper windows machine even if they break, they are half the price. Dell makes a decent one as does ASUS.