I keep forgetting settings but for my canon 5d2, I shoot in raw to get the extra two stops of dynamic range. This means that
- automatic light optimization I leave off since it doesn’t affect raw
- highlight tone priority shoots at a lower iso by on stop and then brightens digitally. So an iso 200 shot is actually taken at iso 100 and then shadows are brightened. I don’t use this as the camera is relatively noisy already so pushing dark means more noise at least in theory. For newer cameras like the fuji xe-1 this can work really well as it is so low noise which is why they implement this for up to two stops. So an iso400 shot is really iso 100 and then I camera brightened.
- picture styles only apply tomjoeg but set as faithful so the histogram a which are based in jpeg in camera are accurate v
My rear brakes rub against the 700x30c tire I have. It is just 2mm of clearance that I need. Sheldon has a great suggestion for building a “drop bolt” that will let me move the brake caliper up and out of the way.
Requires that you get 3/4″ x 1/8″ aluminum stock from a hardware store. Then drill two holes. Put a 6 mm bolt into the rear stay and then mount the brake on the second bolt.
Finally finished this project after six months. Have got a “brand new” cross-bike after cannabalizing parts and adding about $250 worth of other stuff. Here are the specs and note on the problems still with it. This bike was originally 23.4 lbs. Wonder how much it is now.
* Trek 560 Frame. 1985 Purple and Yellow, but still in good shape. It is steel, but not rusted. _Could use a coat of paint though (oh well)._
* Tange Mangalloy CCL Crown Fork and Trek Pro Black Headset
* Sterling Icon Stem. 110mm. Came off of my Trek 5900. Has a Cinelli Threadless to Threaded quill adapter to mate it with the 1 inch steerer.
* 3T Prima 199 Bars. Again from my 5900. Nice set of light bars.
* Selle San Marco Era. A very nice saddle.
* Sugino SP-KC Forged Alloy seat post. Original seat post is you can believe that. Good
* Campagnolo Record Ergo Levers. Scratched, but from my old 5900 pre-accident.
* Suntour Front and Rear Brakeset. Has Tek brake holders and pads though.
* Suntour Front Derailleur. The original front derailleur, seems to work OK.
* Campagnolo Chorus Long Cage Rear Derailleur. New part, it is sized for 13-29 cassettes.
* Campagnolo Chorus 13-26 Cassette. I only got 13-26 in the rear
* Campagnolo Record Bottom Bracket and Crankset. Again, badly scratched and dinged, but still functional. 53-39 rings.
* Campagnolo Cableset. Hard to thread, but they are on there now.
* Campagnolo Record Chain. Brand new since the 13-29 needs a long chain.
* Campagnolo Record Hubs on Mavic CXP-33 rims with double-butted spokes in a 3-cross pattern. This is my toughest wheelset.
* Michelin Cyclocross Jet 700×30 tires. These are fine for the front, but rub just a little in the rear. _I need to replace with a 700×30 Ritchey Speedmax tire in the rear as the 30 is just a little too big pumped at 50 psi for the brake, but not the frame. This is a big tire that is really a 35c which is the problem._
* Cinelli Bar tape. Completes the ensemble.
Continue reading “Finished! Trek 560 Remade”
Eureka. The rear derailleur cable is threaded. OK, thanks to great folks like Peter Westerholm and Skip Echert, I’ve think at least I have some strategies for getting the darn rear deraileur cable through a chain stay:
* Here is my technique. I noticed this rear derailleur cable is at the exact center of the stay. And that a stiff brake cable goes right through. I lifted the bike up so the stay was perfectly vertical. Dropped the cable in and voila it popped out. (See below for other methods suggested).
* Park Tools Info. It is best to use a wire that has been soldered, as it prevents fraying at the end. New cables are welded, and these will work as well. It is often a case a both luck and patience. Give a slight bend the the wire, and then feed in into the hole under the stay near the bb. Work the cable back and then begin tapping. Twist the wire as you tap and it should find the hole. Good luck. Calvin Jones. Park Tool
* “Peter Westerholm”:http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/westerholm.htm. Try very heavy Fishing Line or a light wire. First thread that trough front to back,You may need to use a needle hook to catch the Fishing line in the small exit hole. then run the Cable casing threaded through the starter line and then pull the Line out and run your gear cable. Or try to ask “Sheldon Brown”:http://www.sheldonbrown.com for his feedback. If he can not help then your screwed. Good luck Peter
* “Skip Eckart”:http://vintage-trek.com. Perhaps you can use a vacuum cleaner hose to suck a thin string or thread through the stay, while holding the bike vertically. Then tie the end of
the string to the cable and pull it through. Sorry that I don’t have the definitive answer. If you do get something to work, please let me know. You could post the question on the vintage light weight discussion list at “Vintage Lightweight Bikes Forum”:http://oldroads.com/d_ltw_def.asp?rec_count=1.
* Vintage Lightweight Bikes Forum”:http://oldroads.com/d_ltw_ra.asp?OQID=13500&QuestionNum=13500&RID=0. I have a 1987 Trek 560 and ran into the same problem. A friend of mine told me to try to run the cable housing through first and see if that does it. If not, run a scrap piece of cabling with a string attached to it. The idea is to run the scrap cable though the chain stay and pull it through to get to the string. Then attach the string to your new derailleur cable and pull it through that way. As long as the string and scrap cable is long enough, you shouldn’t have a problem. Good Luck Bryant. You also might try some mechanics wire or bailing wire. “Smitty”:http://oldroads.com/d_ltw_ra.asp?OQID=13500&QuestionNum=13530&RID=13501.
Welcome to Our Site!. Hey, my blog is the #1 hit for Trek 560, here’s someone else using an old bike the right way.
_BTW, I just updated my template so that “Sitemeter”:http://sitemeter.com collects information on all my pages, not just the home page. Wow, hits are rising. I used to estimate 1,400 page views per month, but the total looks much higher._
Harris Cyclery Brakes for Bicycles. I got my BR7301 Tektro 521AG Long-Reach Dual-Pivot Calipers from Harris no problem for just $50 and they only weight 350 grams. Not much given the cost.
I had assume my Trek 560 was long “reach”:http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_r.html#reach with a “recessed”:http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_r.html#recessed mount. But, interestingly, this is one of the few bikes I’ve seen with a short reach, but it is actually a modern one with a recessed mount and short reach. I didn’t realize the Trek’s of 1985 were so modern.
Well, I’m almost done with this bike. I’m short a barrel adjuster, but the most important problem right now is how to thread the rear derailleur cable. Here’s the response I got from Skip who runs the vintage Trek site:
Hello Richard –
I have wondered about that myself. Hmmmmm –
Perhaps you can use a vacuum cleaner hose to suck a thin string or thread
through the stay, while holding the bike vertically. Then tie the end of
the string to the cable and pull it through. Sorry that I don’t have the
definitive answer. If you do get something to work, please let me know.
You could post the question on the vintage light weight discussion “list”:http://oldroads.com/d_ltw_def.asp?rec_count=1 .
Well, with the bike almost done, need to get good on-road and off-road tires. With the dollar high, I found a local source that seems like they ahve pretty good discounts at Bike Tires Direct.
Here are some of the tires I got:
* Continental Grand Prix 4 All Season. For the wet weather that will come inevitable. Right now these are 35% off list.
* “Cyclocross”:http://www.biketiresdirect.com/cyclocross.htm. Michelin Cyclocross Jet and Cyclocross Mud are the two regular and aggressive treads I’ve heard a bunch about.
* “NVV Tire Review”:http://members.aol.com/napavelo/tires.htm. Best set of cyclo cross tire reviews I could find. “Roadbikereview”:http://roadbikereview.com has some, but very thin.
* “Michelin Reviews”:http://www.geocities.com/Pipeline/3195/january_equip.html. Another in depth review of the older Michelin Sprint now replaced by the Jet.
I’ve been looking for brakes that can work with my old Trek 520. These are the so-called long reach brakes. The frame is older so you can put larger wheels on it, but it does require different brakes. I managed to lose a piece of the old brake set, so this gave me an excuse to upgrade the brakes. Here is what I learned thanks to Sheldon “Brown”:http://sheldonbrown.com:
* Harris Cyclery Brakes for Bicycles. BR7301 Tektro 521AG Long-Reach Dual-Pivot Calipers $49.95/pair. These are high quality and low cost at 350 grams per pair. In comparison, the very highest end Campagnolo Records are 340 grams (140 rear, 160 front) and Shimano Dura Ace is 317 grams. So it is quite competitive and Ultegra is 335 grams.
* “Reach”:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_r.html#reach. Sheldon does a great job of explaining reach. This is how far down the brake calipers go. They used to go down 47-57 mm when my Trek 520 was new, now the standard is 39-49 mm.
* “Recessed Bolt”:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_r.html#recessed. Also, when they went to 39-49mm, then went to a recessed bolt, so to use recessed on older frames, Sheldon gives greate instructions: a) buy two front brake calipers, b) Rear: Front calipers for recessed mounting have bolts that are long enough to mount in back, if you substitute the appropriate washers and a 6 mm nut and c) for the front, drill out the back of the fork crown (8 mm or 5/16 drill bit). This is actually quite easy to do with a handheld electric drill, since you’re only enlarging an existing hole.
I have a beloved 1985 Trek 560 road bike. I’m updating its components as my second bike. For more detials, Vintage trek has scanned in the actual 1985 Trek Racing Bike Brochure. This means I’m going to:
- Drive Train. Changing out all the six speed drive train into a Campagnolo 10-speed set with a combination of Record and Chorus parts. Right now, all the components are out and I now need to insert the bottom bracket, rear derailleur, chain
- Brakes and Levers. Going to Campagnolo Record STI levers. I’ll use the existing brake set for now. Now to go is to get the brakes connected to the SIT levers
- Unbending the rear hanger. It got bent in a crash, so I need to straighten
- Tires and Fenders. Getting cycle-cross tires onto it and also fenders.