Programming your Di2 shifters and getting cog information

A zillion years ago, the old Campy computer told you what gear you were in. How much work is it to get back to that.

Also Shimano is introducing synchronized shifting. That is, one shift and the bike computer decides when to move the front derailleur. Pretty handy. But getting it on an existing bike requite some potential hardware upgrades and firmware updates.

The confusing thing is that the electronics are actually in the battery unit, so you need to get so you can use the latest e-tube software:

  1. The newest battery unit.
  2. The newest junction box normally at the stem called the EW-90A, this thing has a port on the side of the BCR2 and three wires coming out, one to each shifter and then one to the battery. It also has a button at the bottom that is used to select the shift mode,
  3. The newest USB connection to your Windows machine called the Di2 BCR2 which connects into the junction box that is normally at the stem of your bike
  4. The newest wireless connection called D-fly named EW-WU101. This supports both Bluetooth and Ant output to compatible head units like the Garmin 820 (but not the 800) and the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt. The big advantage here is that you get a read out of what cog you are on and how much battery you have left. Also, it let’s you program the thing with the Shimano iOS and Android applications rather than just Windows. This box is not quite available but should be in June 2017.

This gives you two big features:

  1. Syncho-Shift. This is the smart shifting mode, you change it by pushing on the button underneath your junction box twice. This takes you through manual mode where the red and light are solid, the semi-automatic which is two blinks and full automatic which is three blinks. If you have a compatible head unit, you can program it from there or from the e-tube application on your phone.

Drone insurance, tracking and accessories

Well, I think that keeping a drone investment safe is pretty important, so for about 30% of the cost of a drone, here is what you can do:

Insurance

  1. $99 DJI Refresh. This is like Applecare, you buy at the DJI Store and then within 48 hours of activation type in your drone serial number. You take a broken drone and return to them up to twice a year and get a new one for $79 and $129. Pretty good deal.
  2. Drone insurance. Allstate apparently will insure your drone for $60 a year.

Drone tracking

For $45, you can get RF-V16 which is a 2G drone tracker (which is getting discontinued around the US), you do need a sim for this. There are also 3D printed holders for it which Amazon has plenty of. Finally, the actually programming is a little complicated.

You can use Trackimo for $140 plus a plan after the first year. Then you need a Tile ($20) for when you get close for either of these.

Alternatively, you can buck up for the $220 Marco Polo. This doesn’t use cellular (so works when you are out of cellular for up to two miles plus it also acts like the Tile. It’s also $290 for two as you just need the ultra lightweight tracker.

Accessories

Corsair power cables and Yakima SKS locks

OK more strange accessories:

  1. Be careful when you plug a modular connector into a power supply. There isn’t a standard. So if you lose the bag of connectors, don’t just find a random one. It is expensive to buy replacement cables ($50 for cables when the power supply is $120 feels like highway robbery), but there aren’t many choices. So if you have a Corsair, you need to get genuine Corsair replacements.
  2. And if you buy Yakima or Thule racks, it may seem silly, but spend the money on getting the same key cores. That way you don’t (like me!) have to have a zillion keys all the way around. They are about $12 per core. As an aside, if you forget what core you have, then one small comfort is that these are really nuisance deterrents, Yakima only has 25 or so different A-cores, so get 25x$4 worth of keys and you can open just about anything.

Reflections on customer service and gig economy

Well the gig or outsource economy is in full swing and since it is impossible not to interact with it, I thought I’d note the last three and make some observations:

Buying with e-certificates at Lowe’s.

This shows why competing with Amazon is so hard. They offer huge discounts vs Amazon. Beside free shipping, if you use a click through site, you get 5% off and then with Discover, you can get an additional 10% off using e-certificates. In trying to checkout, the site failed with an edge case. Lots of e-certificates and then trying to add a new credit card. The result was that all the e-certificates were marked with zero balance?!. Trying to chat resulted in quick service, the guy (“Charlie”) just said, you need to call the issuer and thanked me and then hung up. Obviously, he’s going to get a bonus clearing customers and with no customer satisfaction metric, how is Lowe’s to know.

Then an hour long call with a super nice grandmother (two kids) working hard to figure out what happened. After an hour, she called another hard working person in the gift certificates department to get the number unwedged. And at the end, I got the order, but it took an hour. I was super happy, but when I tried to click on “1” at the end to give good feedback, I got the message, “this center is no longer taking customer feedback”

Net, net I got the order done, but it’s just sad to me, this really wonderful person who did a great job covering for Lowe’s really hard time keeping up with the market leader in e-commerce not only didn’t get credit, but I’m sure the hour long call is not going to reflect well on her stats. And even if it did, she’s just a gig economy worker, so what’s her career path anyway.

It’s sad because so many companies are not “Day One” Amazon companies, but instead, try to lower cost outsource it all and they lose what is their greatest asset, people who care.

Broken drone at B&H

Another catastrophe, buying a drone, it doesn’t work out of the box. Calling on a Sunday and you hear that they don’t handle this directly but outsource it, so call again tomorrow. The next day, I get routed to some back end fulfillment house, they give me an RMA and I send it off.

Now how is B&H ever supposed to know that these guys did an awesome, awesome job, I looked at the address, somewhere in New Jersey and it is actually addressed to a real human. I don’t know if I will actually get my money back, but wow what a great experience.

Again, I wonder, with all this outsourcing, how is the CEO of B&H every supposed to know how things are working.

Summary

Well I don’t know if there are any lessons to be drawn, but it is pretty clear that by cutting off the “low levels” for the “high value”, that big companies do lose something important. That is the direct feel of what happens to the hapless customer. Feeling bad about customers is part and parcel with the job (I know I’ve had those jobs), but doing something about it is super hard. Without that direct contact, what happens to all the great grandmothers who really should get promoted for making customers happy, vs. the chat bot guy moving through calls.

Net, net, the main lesson is that all consumers have to vote with your dollars and your feet.Reward the folks who are doing a great job, but also find a way to recognize the people who do a good job despite all the efficiency metrics.

 

Price Protection and Extended Warranty

Ok for the truly nerdy, did you know that if you sign up for earny.co it will track your purchases and if you have a chase or Citibank card, it will take a 25% commission, but will automatically handle the refund process. A pretty good deal.

If you want to do it manually, then Chase, Discover and Citibank all have this. Citibank is the best (so maybe a good card to use) for this. It has something called Rewind which does this automatically.

then if you are careful, most cards from Merrill Lynch to Chase Sapphire will also double the manufacturer’s warranty. You need to register the warranty with Visa to make this all work at cardbenefitservices.com

Mountain Hardware delight

OK, for a long time this was one of my favorite brands, but then they bulked out and got less athletic, so I don’t normally buy their stuff anymore, but if you are lucky enough to have a discount on them, here are the best things in their line:

  • Mens’ Stretch Ozonic. The best thing is they come in S/M/L as well as Short/Regular/Long which is 30/32/34. Really convenient.
  • Hyperlamina Spark 35. In the old days, the down bags were small and light but couldn’t handle the water. Now with the Spark that tradeoff is gone, super light at sub kilo yet it handles water no problem. Miracle.
  • Monkey Man 200. Who wouldn’t love a fleece named Monkey Man, this is just below the very best made, so get it if you get a good discount.

Mavic Pro works!

Well it is nice to have an actual working controller. First a hat tip to B&H Photo Video, they have a 30 day return policy and it is really just a phone call and you get an RMA.

As I said before for things like this, you really want to use a local store because of the possible need for returns. So a local bike shop and a local drone shop are both on the list.

Bathroom updating (aka everything you didn’t want to know about toilets)

OK, feel free to skip past this post, but it took an evening, but right now I feel like the worlds expert on toilets and all things modern (and no there will be no yucky talk here). But here’s the scoop:

TL;dr

We’ve been using the Toto Drake II 1.28GPF which is a “flagship” model at $350 (right hand lever is the CST454CEFRG which you can decode as model 454 which is elongated, ADA height and the CE means the coating, R means right hand or at Home Depot). Toto is reliable and this hits the middle of the road. It is pretty expensive, but on the other hand it is going to last a lifetime. While you can get these on Amazon, using a local place like Home Depot might make more sense. It is easier to return there! [Note that these are all right hand levers, subtract the “R” from the model number to get the left side]

The difference between the Drake and the Drake II is the double cyclone because let’s face it you want a lot of cyclone when dealing with toilets 🙂

If you are smaller and do not want ADA approved and need a round bowl for a tighter space, then a good choice is the Eco Drake 1.28GPF Round with traditional. The market for non-ADA is much smaller, so you can’t get the regular drake style in non-ADA round. Also it is the older Drake so less flush 🙂

None of these come with a seat, so you need either the elongated SS114 at Amazon.

The details

  1. Twenty years ago, the government mandated 1.6 gallons per flush toilets. This is a huge reduction from the 3 gallons before. Might now seem like much, but it does add up and toilet flushes are one of the highest uses of water in most homes.
  2. Today, the new push is to get to 1.28 gallons per flush. In drought areas like LA (not this year!), this is actually required. Amazingly, computer modeling and various techniques allow reliability at this level. This is called Ecosense by the way EPA. The best ones are really very good now.
  3. There are also more complicated two button systems that have a 1.6 and a 0.9 gallon flush pattern. This is designed so the arithmetically 1.28 🙂 Maintenance of course is more complicated and it’s harder to deal with than a lever.
  4. Coatings. The higher end toilets have these special coatings that are easier to clean, they cost more, but what the heck.

Well people are also getting taller and older, so there are some new ADA requirements that most modern toilets fulfill:

  1. Height. The old standard was 15 inches, now ADA is 17-19 inches. While not a big deal, it probably is a good thing to get an ADA one for home resale.
  2. Shape. The so called elongated bowl is also ADA.
  3. Level side. ADA requires that you put the lever on the “entry” side. The standard is on the left, but many times, you need it on the right, so you need the “R” models.
  4. Seat. These guys are tricky, they don’t include a $40 seat with the toilet, so beware

Losing your points

Man, I can’t count how many $$$s I’ve lost with expiring rewards points, but with a disciplined use of 1Password, so at least I know what accounts I have, plus a subscription to Awardwallet, hopefully this will be a thing of the past. Some notes, (by the way I was dumb, the old price as of February was $10/year, now it is $30/year, so it does cost something to keep track, otoh, you can lost $400 a year, so it probably does pay back).

  1. It is a complete pain, but you can painstakingly go through Awardwallet and give it the codes to all your accounts. If you are paranoid, they have a client-side only option, so that all the passwords are kept on your local machine. This is like 1Password’s system and is great.
  2. For most of the hotel, airline and other rewards systems, it will periodically logon and tell you the expiration date and then you search the web to figure out how to prevent expiration.
  3. It also has a “family” feature so you can keep the accounts of the family and each can access their own.

Last year, we lost a free ticket on Virgin, and who knows what else. Hopefully not this year.

As an example:

  1. Alaska Airlines has a 18 month expiration policy. You just have to use their portal and you are OK.
  2. Marriott has a similar rule and you can donate to charity 2500 points and keep it going.

Argh Mavic Pro is cool but beware

Well there isn’t any doubt that DJI has the best drone on paper with the Mavic Pro, but here’s what to watch out for:

  1. Hardware issues. Out of the box, the brand new Mavic controller would not pair with the drone. I’m sure they are selling like hot cakes, but this is the first time a $$$$s is completely broken out of the box. Fortunately there is a DJI Authorized Repair center there and they verified the controller is dead (it stays on connecting and it does beep when you press buttons). More frightening is that they tried 3 other controllers and one was dead. The manager said, yes this was a common problem, so unscientific, but a 50% failure rate doesn’t exactly breed a lot of confidence. I’m going to return the Mavic and rebuy from the local dealer.
  2. Net, net, make sure that if you are buying a drone, to get one from a local dealer because it is pretty likely you are going to have to get it replaced.
  3. DJI Repair plan. That is not what it is called, but for an extra $99, you can get a destroyed bird fixed for $99 or so and then another in the first year. However, be aware that you have to activate the plan within 48 hours of using your drone. The guys I bought from were good, they activated the plan with the now dead bird. I’m unsure, but hopefully I can return this thing and still get the $99 back.
  4. Customer Service. Well, I sent them email and after a week, still no reply. This is a common complaint on the forums.
  5. Acres of firmware updates and deep user interface. Man, for a consumer product, they sure ship lots of firmware updates, you have to update the battery, the drone, the controller and of course the iPhone itself. Make sure that when you get one, you leave half a day to get all this done. Many complaints on forums where you go out and try to fly but you need to do an update first, so make sure to update before you fly.
  6. Flight modes galore. This thing has so many different modes it is hard to keep track and the forums are filled with experts talking to noobs, the user base is not yet large enough to have every question answered

Net, net, the drone thing is moving rapidly and hopefully customer service and product quality catch up. In the mean time, if you have to have one, make sure to get one from a local dealer who also does repairs (e.g. not Best Buy). You need someone who is willing to fix the thing.