Well windows has sure gotten more complicated. Getting telnet running take three steps
You need to run the Super Administrator mode for the command line. This is pretty hidden right now particularly if you are Running a windows tablet and it is not clear how to right click. The trick is to long press and item and then that is interpreted as a right click
Go to the Cortana menu which is the text box on the lower left and type ‘Cmd’. Then Long press and you will get a context menu so choose ‘run as administrator’
Now you need to run their download manager dism. And you want to enable the feature with ‘dism /online /Enable-Feature /FeatureName:TelnetClient’
Then if you want to capture a telnet stream it is as simple as ‘telnet ip adress socket‘ > output.txt
Well if you want to capture multiple videos from a Mac and potentially mix them here are some applications to try:
- Capturesync. Best Software has this, in experimenting, it is nice because it puts all of the video into a single file. Since it is recasting files it is CPU intensive. Works fine with three uhd feeds and five hd feeds at 5 fps on a MacBook Pro (2014).
- ScopeBox. This monitors feeds and then turns it into video. This has a nicer interface, but doesn’t scale beyond a few inputs and seems to hang.
- VLC. Remove audio is one important thing and VLC does this pretty easily.
Some standard dimensions:
- Logitech C920. 1080p30
- Logitech Brio. 4Kp30
Well it seems pretty clear the Mavic Pro is the most awesome drone right now, but as usual, you need a host of accessories. The drone was really hard to get a launch, but now there are bunch of places which will set you back about $1500 mainly for the batteries.
- DJI Mavic Pro. This is $999 from Amazon and most other places. There is a $1300 prop bundle that is kind of a decent deal because it has 2 Extra batteries ($180), 2 Extra propellers ($20), 1 charging hub, 1 car charger, 1 battery to power bank adaptor and a shoulder bag. But most folks think the shoulder bag is too tight.
- DJI Refresh. You definitely need this, For $99 at Amazon, it gives you repairs and even if you land your drone in the water as long albs you can recover it you can get a new one.
- Replacement propellers. Because you will certainly destroy them and for $25 at Amazon, it’s cheap insurance.
- Extra Batteries. These are $90 each from Amazon and you need at least three given the 20 minute time and the length of time it takes to charge. So you need a total of four batteries to keep it flying continuously (one in and three recharging).
- 5 in 1 charging hub. This will charge three batteries at once in about 60 minutes. The main thing is that to charge three batteries at once, it is huge and has a big fan. It’s a true parallel charger
- Hood. You need your own cell phone for this thing, but you need a hood in bright sunlight. for $14.
- Leg Extenders. Most folks recommend these $10 accessories because the drone is too low to take off from gravel or grass.
- Prop guards. These are $13 and keep your props from chewing up trees for people for that matter.
- Hard case.
Well since I’ve been buying so much now’s a great time to ask how to optimize for purchases. Two pointers:
- Amazon. You can get 3 JetBlue Points per Amazon purchase just by clicking through. That’s about a 5% discount. You can also get a straight 5% off by using an Amazon Store Card, so that’s pretty easy. An even more aggressive way is to buy Amazon Gift Cards from Office Supply stores like Staples and then apply it. This gives you 5x from Chase (so about 11% off in Chase points). It’s kind of wash when you think about it as to what’s better, personally, I like the JetBlue Points plus using your regular credit card if you have one that earns it.
- Netflix. Turns out that Netflix counts as an 5X merchant. So switch to that with your Chase card because it has a
OK, for the third time this year, I’m outfitting someone’s home with enough of a backend that they should be relatively stable, here’s a guide to how to do this:
The right NAS
Synology DS216J. There are a host of models that Synology has, but even the most basic $170 computer gives you a RAID-1 configuration. And with a pair of 4TB drives, it is a great deal. I’m not sure if this is the perfect DS216 (they have a confusing list, but I picked the second from the bottom which is I’ve found usually a pretty cheap one). But it should saturate a gigabit Ethernet and it has a one disk redundancy.
The right hard drives are 4TB or 8TB
Seagate Enterprise Capacity. I’m really over provisioning here, but I’ve found that you really want a drive with a five year warranty because it will last longer as they use higher quality drives. Right now the best price/performance is the 6TB Drive. I normally buy these on Newegg.com as they have the best reviews and good prices. Make sure to sign up for their loyalty program and use cashbackmonitor.com to get a rebate. You really want three drives, two go in and one is a hot backup. So if a drive fails, you can plug the new one in and with RAID-1 it rapidly rebuilds. But with 4TB at $160 at Amazon, pricing is extremely linear at $40/TB all the way up to 10TB! ($420 at Amazon).
I normally get a drive that’s much bigger than I need because things always fill available demand. Right now the cheapest is 8TB at $39 or so if you can afford it, having a 10TB effective server isn’t such a bad thing for your home, it’s going to store a lot of videos! It will set you back nearly $1200 for the disks though, so if you don’t need that much, the $480 for 4TB may be more reasonable.
Even the 10TB is pretty reasonable at $42/TB and the density is incredible although if you think about with the 8TB at $316, you do pay a big premium for 10TB ($102 extra or $50/TB), so perhaps better wait.
Well it’s time once again to make USB boot disks, I’ve been using Diskmaker X forever, but with Sierra, there are some idiosyncratic things:
- Download from the Mac App Store the Sierra download. This will take a while as it it is over 4GB, but this is the image that Diskmaker X uses.
- Make sure that you reformat the disk completely before starting. It doesn’t seem to like already formatted disks and crashes with an error about not being to make things.
- You now get notifications as it moves along which is pretty cool.
For a while I could not get file transfer to work from an Android phone. Tried:
- Take a movie and use Google Photos to upload, this was incredibly slow trying to get 4GB up there.
- Same with a OneDrive upload
- Airdroid uses Bluetooth to do the same and it was way too slow
- Trying Android File Transfer had never quite worked, but I gave it another try and it did!
So here are the tips:
- After you download, when you connect your USB cable, you have to set “File Transfer” enabled. Otherwise it just draws power. The only place I’ve seen this come up is by swiping down and looking for an Android System notification about USB state. Not easy to find and it doesn’t seem to be sticky so you enable it each time.
- Also if it draws too much, the Mac will shut it down, I’m not sure how to prevent this.
- Now with that set, run Android File Transfer and you see a window open up that shows the Android file system. The photos live in the super obvious
- Also do *not* delete from the Android File Transfer application, this causes the phone’s Photo application to be super confused since you do not delete the meta data about the files.
Ok, when you get a new car, here are some tips and tricks:
- If you have a fancy high resolution GPS like the Vsport, then you will see lots of dropouts, so you need a GPS antenna and ideally it should be on the roof. The so called ground plane cuts down the multipath reception you get so you want it on top. The problem is what connector, well it turns out it uses something called MCX (Micro Cable) and you need one which is a straight connector and not an elbow. Amazon sells a straight adapter that makes this work
Nothing like waiting 30 years between buying bikes. Finally brad got me back so I’ve been trying bikes for theee days solid. Great interval training!
Thoughts are to read the reviews. There are many good ones so I’ll stack rank the important things
- Budgets. Well this is the hard one but there are definitely shelf points. Getting to $2k is probably the best Value for the money. But heck bike lust can move you way higher than that!
- Bike shop. Read the reviews as they are great but going to your local bike shop (Elements is great!) is the way to try the bikes and work with someone who is knowledgeable.
- Fit. Bikes have moved in measurement from reach and stack height to vertical so now the new measurements are center to top and then effective top tube length, so you can measure how “long” and “low” you want to go. A cheaper better fitting bike is way better than a more expensive one that doesn’t fit. Two quick things are to look down when you mount a bike and see the handlebars block the front axle and then pedal backwards with your heels and see if your leg stretches out fully.
- Framesets. This is actually hard to change. You want light, stuff yet compliant. The mid range frames tend to be the Best deals. You lose 150 grams in weight for 2x the price.
- Wow electronic shifting is pretty awesome. The new etap sounds cool but the latest shim about 9100 makes lots of sense. Right side is down. Left is up and it automatically picks the right chain ring. No more cross chaining. And u can get a new battery and firmware so works on older setups.
- Discs. These are coming to road bikes. Great for rain and also is ur running carbon rims and don’t want them to fail. Main issue is thru axle. You really want one as alignment is hard and there’s a safety issue. Or get bolt on skewer.
- After the bike itself the wheelset makes the most difference so get the nicest one you can. U can save a pound and rotational weight is 5x more valuable than static.
- Computers. This actually makes a difference but they are expensive. The main thing is to get something which is Bluetooth compatible so you can use your phone in a pinch. Of course it does mean your phone battery is going to drain so a dedicated bike computer is not a bad thing.
- Power meters. At least you should get a heart rate monitor and a cadence meter and speed of course. But if you can afford it they are great. You can spend a lot but the simpler ones like the crank arm or even the pedals are a great way to do this.
- Trainer. Biking is hard to do by yourself so getting an online coach is cheap and easy way to get better.
- Indoor. With the new trainers, stick a big screen in front and it is nearly as good as being out there.
Thoughts on bikes, it’s great to spend a day or even a week trying bikes, a great bike shop will let you take them out for a test ride, so bring your riding clothes and you want a course that will let you test going on out on flats, riding up a hill and then a descent preferably on a bike trail with little traffic. (It’s a great way to interval train). It’s nice to have your own phone so you can measure your speeds and also a heart rate monitor to measure how much effort you are putting in (I didn’t do this but wish I had!).
I’m going to resist ranking bikes for the moment since it is so much a matter of preference, but here are some riding notes from an out of shape cyclist sorted from higher comfort to more race oriented, these are the 2016 models and it isn’t a bad time to shop at the model change over. So here’s a list of the dream bikes I tried, wow it was an incredible few days:
- BMC Roadmachine 01. This was one amazing cruiser. For a cool $11K it should be, man once you get up to speed, it really rocks. Nice aero wheels and the Dura Ace Di2 grippo was awesome as was the wheel set. It’s got the two things that I really wanted electronic shifting and disk brakes. Really a nice ride and super compliant yet stiff at 930 gram frame weight. Basically a beautiful endurance bike that can go anywhere
- Collage C60. This is a lugged beauty. I’ve always lusted for one.
- Parlee Altum Disk. I actually loved this bike quite a bit, more responsive than the Roadmachine, but smoother than the F8. It was also incredibly light and felt like it charged up the hills. At $6K list, a relative bargain here as a small American manufacturer doing small batches in Taiwan.
- BMC Timemachine 01. This is a great race oriented bike. It is not disk ready though, but I sure loved riding it.
- BMC Timemachine 02. This is a good way to go for value. Adds 150 grams in weight, but is half the price of the 01. You can put that towards an incredible Enve 34 wheel set for instance and get to a terrific place.
- Pinarello Dogma F8 Disc. This is the disc version of the F8, so a few pounds heavier, but with Ultegra Di2, it’s pretty awesome. It does have a quick release hub though (the 2017 goes to a 12mm transaxle), so you might want to get a set of bolt-on skewers to make sure it doesn’t release and stay true as disks are pretty picky.
- Pinarello Dogma F8. This is the bike that has won a bunch of Tour de France’s. And as one buddy said, if I were to buy one, I would have to train in the dark until I could actually ride it. It is super light and super responsive. The new Dogma F10 supersedes it this year. With a Fulcrum Race Zero wheel set, it looks fast just sitting still.
So some specific recommendations for accessories:
- Quadlock. I think I got this from Wirecutter (and CyclingAbout) and did get for Calvin, it is a really reliable lock for the car. Also I see the Element Cycles has them on their racks.
- Ultegra SPD-SL. The leader these days is the Ultegra carbon’s. At 128 grams, it’s hard to beat
- Shimano S-Phyre (and super light at 230 grams and only in bike shops for $400 with custom heat fitting) but shoes have a huge range of options. There are a huge number of options but the main things are getting something with Boa dials so it is easily adjustable and carbon fiber soles to maximize energy transfer. Fit of course is always the first and most important thing.
- Shimano Yellow Cleats. ($105 at Amazon)Well then there are the cleats, most folks should get some with a little float so you don’t damage your knees. The yellow Shimano ($24 at Amazon) is a 6 degree float and you’ll also want a cover for it too. ($14).
- Wahoo Element Bolt. (There are lots of Computer). Well while you could use your phone, the reality is the battery won’t last as long as a dedicated bike computer. I’ve had lots of these over time, but right now the Wahoo Elemnts seems like a decent choice. It’s aero, support ANT+ and Bluetooth so you can use it with your existing monitors and cadence and RPM. As an aside I find DCRainmaker to be just awesome at doing in-depth reviews of gear like this. It’s pretty clear it is between the Garmin Edge 520 and the Wahoo Elemnts (he doesn’t like the large size of the Wahoo, and I do have one of these Garmins running around in my garage somewhere!). One of the great things is that it is configured from your phone, so you don’t spend hours clicking on a tiny machine without touch. And of course Garmin remains ANT+ only whereas Wahoo supports Bluetooth and of course connects to it’s trainers. And although they lack an open apps platform like Connect IQ, their Strava integration is really good
- Strava. This seems to be the default social network for cyclists.
- ENVE 3.4. These come across over and over as the nicest wheel set even at an astronomical $2K (right now there are a bunch of 20% closeouts) and ultra light 1,532 g or try the Fulcrum Quattro Pro as a good value carbon set for disks. However the stock Shimano WH-RX31 ($450) are pretty darn good). These are 2Kg. For comparison the new Shimano 9100 C40 is $1970 and weighs in at 1557 grams
This is the first time I’ve had this problem, but basically Spotlight indexing is working, but Mac Mail doesn’t seem to ever find anything. I’m not the first person with this problem. But the fix doesn’t seem to work. Doing a rebuild and then deleting the index doesn’t help.
I also tried just deleting all the data in ~/Library/Mail/V4 which forces a complete reload, but that doesn’t work either. Argh!
Another suggestion was to sign in and out of iCloud?!
Or you can rebuild your entire Spotlight index since Mac Mail uses it (although this feels like a Mac Mail bug since Spotlight works fine). Now that this actually generated an error saying that it could not remove the entire disk. This looks like a terrible error:
Privacy List Error (null)
Looks like a bug and now typing the terminal line
mdutil -E / returns a
/: No Index Yikes!
Now it looks like there is something really wrong with Spotlight, so I tried the draconian
sudo rm -rf ./Spotlight-V100 but amazing, this doesn’t change any indexing and I still get no index messages. Argh!
What’s needed is an actual reboot (which they don’t mention). But after reboot, I do get the indexing message at the Spotlight icon. I don’t know if this will help but worth a try.
And Eureka it works. Looks like net, net, Spotlight somehow got confused. I’m not sure if I had to do a complete reindex, but the fact I was getting
(null) messages is not a good sign