Now that I’m taking so many more pictures with iPhones, I’ve been thinking about how to best move files off. With digital cameras, here is the flow:
- offload the SD or CF card
- use DxO to process them as I find it’s automatic features blow things out less than Adobe Photoshop.
- Add location information with Lightroom and change dates as needed in the EXIF as I sometimes forget to set the date and time correctly when traveling (I do everything in local time)
- then put them into a simple file system (not Lightroom) that makes it easy to access and which is independent of the editing application. It’s work, but protects me from changes in software. These files go into a RAID-6 Synology NAS. I separate the JPGs from the RAWs so that I have an archive and also something that is in common format
- Backup these files onto another Drobo NAS and then into Crashplan so I get four backups
- FTP them to Bluehost running Gallery so there is access to them (although this is super slow so I need to either upgrade Bluehost or switch to a faster photo poster).
- For sharing purposes, use the low resolution iCloud Photo Sharing as it’s simple to add from the iPhone (more on that later) or from a Mac.
However with iPhone’s, this seems a little silly since the devices are naturally connected, so in experimenting with the flow. Also there are many more phones in our family and I’d like to collect the data there:
- Turn on Photo Stream if you only need JPEGs. I normally have left this off, but it allows full resolution backups of anything from the phones which is really a good idea. The main thing that you lose here are all videos and the live photos. Photo Stream only supports regular JPEGs
- Turn on iCloud Photo Library. If you have less than 5GB of photos (e.g. are cheap and do not want to pay Apple more), then this works, it copies all 5GB of photos up to your Mac automatically. The main issue is that you have to be disciplined about how much you store on your phone. In practice, other things are using iCloud storage, so you have to disable iPhone backup (I do anyway since it is pretty easy to recreate configurations) and disable a bunch of the applications that are storing stuff on iCloud, like WhatsApp for instance. The other thing you should do is to sweep through the iCloud Drive on your Mac and see what files are there, I had 1GB of old Keynote presentations.
- Final hint is that you should go to Photos/Preferences and unclick copy into library, you want as little as possible in the iCloud Photo Library so you leave most of the room for the iPhone camera.
From here you pretty much have the standard flow:
- Go to a Mac and use Photos to do selection and quick edits of these photos.
- Then export the photos as unmodified originals usually to the file system
- I have started to take DNGs now that iOS 10 allows that and DxO does not like this, so I use Photoshop to convert from DNG to JPG.
- Now I can delete the photos from Photostream and from the iPhone storage as well. The result is that I can now manage my photos as needed without have to “dock” the iPhone.
- Finally when I use multiple phones, I just access their photostream. This does require that I have the user’s password, but that’s not a huge problem in a family. Then I can use their Photostream to do the same as above.
There is a dizzying array of ways to make your tax payments. And I have to say they are not super discoverable, but here is what I have found from cheapest to most expensive:
- directpay.irs.gov. This requires that you valid by knowing some facts from previous returns and then it will let you put your checking account in and the government gets your money. It takes a day or two to settle so plan ahead.
- eftps.gov. I think this is mainly meant for business, it does the same thing, but requires that you first enroll, you then get actual physical paper with your pin, then you can setup your password and tie it to your bank account. It also let’s you schedule payments for quarterlies if you do that. More hassle I think, but you don’t have to have a copy of your tax returns around.
- https://www.irs.gov/uac/pay-taxes-by-credit-or-debit-card. Then there are third parties, if your bill isn’t large, you can use a debit card for about $2 a transaction. Or if you are a points lover and your points are worth more than 1.6%, you can use an actual credit card. This is not a bad way to hit things out of the park or at least meet spending requirements. There are lots of providers, but I’ve used Pay1040.com and PayUSAtax.com successfully.
Ok in consumer electronics, here are the next recommendations:
- TVs as Computer monitors. Do not get one, instead, get a low-end TV. At 43 inches, this will let you really develop software well assuming you have the room on your desk and believe me you will want to. The Samsung 6300 line for instance is $500 for 43″.
- 4K HDR Televisions. The world of quantum dots and 4K HDR are here, the picture has never been brighter and televisions cheaper. The sweet spot are 65 inch television which you can get for $1K. We aren’t moving up in resolution for a long time. For folks with a little more dough, heading to HDR makes sense. The new Sony’s look amazing.
- 4K content. This has also matured. Windows 10 supports DRM on 4K, so you can watch your Netflix, but the best choice right now is the nVidia Shield. With the latest software update, you can watch 4K HDR from Amazon, Netflix and Youtube. Note that all Shields are getting a software update to do this and you should get the $200 one because they have two USB connections for adding storage.
I got two adapters that convert USB C to a SATA interface, you can bus power a SSD, so this is not a bad test. I then ran Black Magic Speed Test and found to my surprise that one of the cables is 20-30% faster than the other. I used two SSDs, a Toshiba OCZ TR150 1TB and a Samsung 850 EVO 1TB and as expected the 850 EVO was slightly faster.
- Sabrent 2.5″ SATA Hard Drive/SSD to USB Type-C Adapter EC-HDSS. This cable’s main drawback is that it is long (about 0.5meters long), but it has an LED to tell you it is operating and both of these drives averages 510MBps read and 480MBps write on this interface. It also says it supports UASP so should be good for small reads and writes. At $17, it is hard to lose
- Cable Matters USB C to SATA. I don’t have the exact part number for this, but it’s main advantage is that it has a much shorter cable, probably about 0.25 meters. However is is slower for both these drivers running at 400MBps read and 380MBps for the Evo and 360MBps read and write for the OCZ. Not sure that makes a huge difference, but I use these for big backups, so it does save time. One reviewer by the way says it’s not compatible with the MacBook Pro late 2016, I haven’t found this to be a problem at least on my 15″ MBP.
- Startech USB 3.1 Adapter Cable for SATA with USB C. I also have ordered this but haven’t tested it yet.
I’ve been using Google Slides quite a bit lately and I’ll be on to Office365 next, but here are some power user tips:
- The themes are really powerful, but you can many themes with the same name. There is an invisible GUID for themes, so when you are confused about formatting turn on the themes and then click on the “In this Presentation” button, you will probably see many themes of the same name. If you delete all but one, then things will be sane again.
- Deleting lists. Lists in this product are really strange. You can add them with the GUI, but there appears to be no way to get rid of lists. In a slide, you can use a keyboard shortcut, CMD-SHIFT-7 but this does not work in a theme. Very strange.
- Images are really easy. You just go and give it any link, but the tricky thing is you can actually crop images to shapes. Just click on the crop icon on the right and you will see you can crop to any shape. It is not in the format images menu though so hard to find.
Well they now allow unlimited photos with an Amazon Prime account and you can share your high resolution photos with up to five family members. It does sound like the ideal backup strategy. But here are the problems:
- Live Photos. They still have a 5GB limit for videos and other storage, unless you pay $59 a year. The problem is that I have mixed my videos and photos all together and live photos have a video component, so you pretty quickly get hit that limit.
- They rename the photos! OK, this matters mainly to me because the actual names of the photos have meta data for me. That is, they will often have the name of the camera and also once the photos get renamed, you cannot just download them and use it as a straight backup, you either pickup Amazon’s scheme or not.
Anyway, continuing to look for a good photos sharing solution. As I said before iCloud Photo sharing isn’t bad but limits the photos to 4Mp. Amazon doesn’t but renames files. Still looking for something that is relatively free!
I’ve been meaning to put a real router into the house for a while. You really want something that can handle 2M packets/second (why, I don’t know) but more importantly something that is reliable. Previously I had used the Linksys WRT-54G (which dates me!) and I found that under heavy load it would crash and hang. Even with DD-WRT installed.
For a long time i’ve been recommending Airport Extremes because they just seem to work, but now that Apple is out of the business, it seems like a good time to reconsider. There are two big features:
- Reliability. Making sure there is enough memory in the thing to keep it from crashing
- Failover. Having two internet connection particularly in an office is a good idea. So I have both the Edgerouter Lite and also the Linksys small business version.
Here’s a list of what I found:
- Make sure to plug the computer into the ETH0 port as that is the configuration one. The other ones will not respond to 192.168.1.1.
- Edgerouter is more of an enterprise thing but the Quickstart is pretty clear, so first thing I discovered it that it came with version 1.2, so none of the guide are correct at the Ubiquiti site. I see that 1.9 is the current version
- There is no place in the UI for the router to update the firmware that’s obvious but looking at it, you actually click on a tab at the *bottom* of the screen called system (what a strange place to put this) and then scroll all the way to the bottom and then you can upload a file. go to the ubiquiti site first and get the latest tar. it looks like it needs ssh commands to do this. Which is actually easier to understand. It does need a connection to the outside world to do this though, so kind of hard to configure. Once nice thing is they let you have two firmware versions, so if an update fails, you can recover.
- Now I tried the load balancing wizard and the router seemed to just hang. You have to switch to ETH2 as the LAN port, but fortunately reset is easy. On the next try, I got the connection for a little bit and DHCP seemed to work but then I got the message could not load router configuration. The main issue seems to be that you have to wait a while for the configuration to take effect. You can’t just refresh the browser.
- When this is finally setup, then there is a new error, the router works, but I get “cannot read router configuration” when browsing to the web ui. It looks like you have to close Safari at least and then you can see the Web UI.
- Finally remember that user names are case sensitive, so the user name
Rich is the not the same as
Ok there are real problems with after market cables particular with USB C.
USB C, unlike other USB cables, are not created equal. Some only have six wires in them, some have 24, some have the right passive electronics (pull up resistors) and some have the right active electronics (e-mark), so you need to read reviews careful and grade cables by:
- USB IF certified. Ignore the Amazon reviews, search for this or search for Bensen Leung’s list.
- Power carrying. Cables carry a limited set of power, the most of 100 Watts, the least is 15 watts, mark this on your cable.
- Data carrying. Cables vary from 480Mbps to 40GBps
- Length. The longer the cable, the less data they carry
It used to be pretty easy. A cable had a set protocol and speed. However with USB C it support multiple and very different protocols over the same connector. USB really seven separate factors you need to consider:
- Connector type.The connectors on each end which typically use letters to identify themselves. In the beginning there was USB A (the familiar rectangular thingy) and less common USB B (big and square) and then a host of smaller ones. Mini-USB and micro-USB.
- Connector genders. USB has traditionally been asymmetric and non-reversible. So the most common cable would be a male USB A with a female micro-USB for most cell phones. With USB C for the first time the two ends are asymmetric and reversible.
- Protocol and speeds. Over the wires there have been a host of speeds with really confusing names. So there is USB 2.0 or 480MBps, USB Superspeed aka USB 3.0 or 5Gbps. USB Superspeed+ aka USB 3.1 Gen 2 or 10GBps. And with USB C there is something called alternate mode so you can put other protocols through. Notably for video you can feed it HDMI 1.4 or 10Gbps or HDMI 2.0 or 20Gbps. You need 2.0 to get 60 hertz 4k. And also now Thunderbolt 2 at 20Gbps or 3 at 40Gbps. Confused yet?
- Length. In general the faster the protocol the shorter the length. It’s easy to get 4 meter USB 2.0 cables but USB 3.1 10Gbps is limited to 1 meter and Thunderbolt 3 to 0.5m. So one size cable does not fit all
- Power carrying for phone. The original USB 2 was limited to 250mA at 5V. Then this was bumped to 500mA then 2A and finally to 2.4A and there is a proprietary Qualcomm 3A specifications called quick charge. So this is how you 10 watt chargers (5V x 2A) or 15 watt (5V x 3A). For these 5V systems, the big problem is that cables need a 56 Kohm resister to signal what they can carry and many off brands do not.
- Power for laptops. With USB 3 the voltages are also negotiated from 5V to 20V. Not all cables can carry the full 100 watts per the specification (20V x 5 amps), some are limited to 60 watts so beware of that as well. The MacBook Pro 15″ late 2016 needs 87 watts for instance.
- Certification USB IF and emark. This means it has been tested. If it is has an emark chip then it is active and works longer.
Follow Benson Leung to get the scoop but basically bad power can destroy electronics. And you also to really understand how much data you want to push though.
- USB C to USB A. These connect your old USB charger the problem is that the cheap ones do not use 56K pull-up resistors, so can draw too much power and burn out your phone.
- USB c to USB c and USB c chargers . The new standard has variable voltage. So for phones it can be 5V by 2-3 amps but for laptops it can negotiate to 10V, 15V or even 20v at 5 amps. However some cables and chargers do not correctly set the voltage and will destroy your electronics.
- Full featured USB C vs USB 2.0 There seem to be differences in USB c cables because they support are USB 2, 3 and 3.1 Gen 2 in transfer speeds. That is 480Mbps, 5Gbps and 10Gbps (highspeed, Superspeed, Superspeed+). And of course now there is thunderbolt using the same connector at 40Gb. So net net u want USB c with USB 3.1 and all those extra wires. Because this thing is high data rate it is hard to get cables longer than 1M in full featured. Full featured also allows some wires to be used in alternate mode so it can drive a display.
- USB c For thunderbolt 2 and 3. These are even faster at 20Gbps and 40Gbps so u again need special cables. Even Apple doesn’t have a TB3 cable but startech makes a 0.5m cable which is the max length for 40Gbps. Or you need an cable active electronics to go farther. And for displays you have 10Gbps for DP 1.4 and HDMI 1.x but need 20GBps for DP 2 and HDMI 2 and 4kp60. And this alternate mode is so new that some cables do not work with certain laptops. Ao make sure your model has been verified to work.
Net, net here are some cables that you can try.
- For phones: USB C for USB 2 at 480Mbps and 15 watts. Use cables and chargers from Apple or Google. Note that the apple cable is only rated at Highspeed USB 3 or 480mbps. These are $19 from Apple or just $5 from VCE. Troll Benson’s links to see what works but his list of recommended phone cables is on an Amazon wish list that works for mobile phones.
- For laptops 1 meter at 100 watts and full 10GBps: USB C for USB 3.1 Gen 2 at 10Gbps and 100 watts. And Startech JUX01 which is 10Gbps with 100 watts charging which Nathan likes (a trusted reviewer) at $24.
- For laptops 2 meters at 100 watt only: I’m having trouble finding anything but the $20 cables from Apple which supply the full 100 watts at 2 meters.
- For laptops at 2 meters that need only 60 watts. Choetech for $15 which has only 60 watts for $15.
- For SSD to a laptop. USB C for USB 3.1 Gen 2 at 10Gbps and 15 watts. There is also Amazon has the Belkin as highly rated example for $13-15 in 2 meter length but only support 15 watt sharing, so best for connecting a peripheral like an SSD for instance to a laptop and getting power from the laptop.
- For disk array to a laptop. USB C for TB3 for 40Gbps and 60 watts. I haven’t found testing for it but u will need a different cable set for TB3. StarTech cost $20 for 0.5m and a terminated with USB C on both sides and supports 60 watts for laptops (so not quite enough for a 15″ MBP 2016) and 150 watts for phones (e.g. 5V only). It is not e-marked though.USB
- For UHD 4K display at 60 hertz to a laptop. The main issue here is making sure it supports 5K or 4K displays at 60 hertz. So for a USB C for DP 2 for 18Gbps, the Cable Matters seems to work with a full DisplayPort. Then Pluggable has a USB C to HDMI 2.0 for 18Gbps that also supports 4kp60 but it is not MBP 2016 compatible. Note that Apple’s own adapter does not support 4Kp60.
- For ethernet to a laptop. Cable Matters makes a 1Gbps Ethernet that seems pretty decent.
- As a one connection docking station with HDMI at 30 hertz for UHD. The right one hasn’t seem to have been invented yet but I would say a single connection that is 40GBps USB C that breaks out Ethernet (1Gbps), 4Kp60 video (18Gbps), SD card reader (5Gbps) and some passthrough USB A and C Ports would be great. There is enough bandwidth at 40Gbps to do this, but most do not support 4Kp60 yet or the full 100 watt passthrough. Satechi or Juiced Systems at $75 is the closest with 4kp30 and about 60 watts passed through..
The confusing thing for consumers is that all look the same so get your label makers out and mark the cables with the power they can carry for phones (15W), for laptops (100W) and data rates (480, 5Gb or 10Gb). Wow that is going to confuse lots of people.
Well, the family the blogs together has the most fun together. Here’s a list of everyone who is blogging. I don’t know how up to date, but we definitely have the domain names covered:
Well it seems like it is that time of year again. Got two questions on backups. Here’s the short story
If you are using a USB flash drive to backup your precious photos please stop! That’s not super reliable. Instead get a $120 hard disk backup at least. Wirecutter has a good recommendation. Why a real hard drive. Well SSDs are fast but if you don’t plug them into the wall every year or so they will lose all data. They are electronics after all.
Use a tool like Dropbox, google photos or apple iCloud to automatically suck your photos and documents into the cloud. These work well and for most folks that is enough.
The next step up is to just have everything trickle fed to the cloud. Crashplan works well for me and is pretty much invisible.