Well I haven’t crashed the drone yet, but now it’s time to get the most quality video and photos from it, first some dumb things:
- For a long time I could not figure out how to change the resolution of the camera. I kept on going to the upper right settings menu and the only options there are about the gimbal. What you actually have to do is to click on the button just below the shutter button on the lower right. You will then get resolution choices. Note that the video and photo modes give totally different settings.
- So what settings to pick, well first get a huge SD card and a fast one (UHD) so you can shoot in 4K video. I normally pick 4160 because why not and then you get 24fps, if you are shooting fast stuff, then 1080p at 60fps might be your choice, but not for landscapes.
So what if you want to actually shoot professionally, then you really tweak the settings. You have to shoot so you can image process later:
- Basically this means shoot in D.Lux if you are going to process, although Standard seems decent.
- You also should take it out of AWB or automatic white balance otherwise the color will shift depending on what you are looking at so something in the 5500-6000 Color Temperature makes sense.
- Finally, you want to manually set the ISO as low as possible and to prevent weird artifacts, you need to shoot at a low shutter speed.
- The rule of thumb is 1/(2xframe rate). So at 24fps, you want to shoot at 1/50th or so. This means you will want a set of neutral density filters so it doesn’t look overexposed.
- Set the color settings to “1 0 1” for later use.
I’ve been having this strange problem with Ubuntu 16.04 in VMware Fusion where it eventually fail with a graphics mode failure, it was horrible to debug but this is what helped:
- First when you have this kind of hang, see if you can get just a terminal windows with CTRL-ALT-F1. Now this is tricky on the new MacBook Pro’s with touch screens, but basically you hold the FN-CTRL-OPT F1. This should get you to a terminal window and you can login in character mode.
- Now you can check the
/var/log/syslog to see what happened. In this case, look for
Failed and you will see that Light Display Manager does not start
- First you should remove the quietness when Linux is starting, so you can at least see the error messages.
- You should edit the /etc/default/grub and remove “quiet splash” from theGRUB_CMDLINE_LINUX_DEFAULT line. Then run `sudo update-grub` and try to reboot. In many cases, this can be solved by making sure you are up to the latest version with `sudo apt-get upgrade` and then do see what you get, with things like Light Display Manager, you will often see packages held back.
- What is happening is that there is a deep change to a package and you can’t simply update it, instead, you use `sudo apt-get dist-upgrade` and this will handle dependencies. For instance this most often happens when there is a deep change in the kernel images say `linux-image-4.4.0-generic` gets bumped, then the packages that need it says `linux-image-generic` also needs a bump, so `dist-upgrade` handles this. You often see this `packages held back` which means that there was a deep update particularly in something like `xserver-xorg-*`
- Now this thing can cause big problems, so most of the time do a simple apt-get upgrade. Then just reboot and pray.
In this case, we see that Light Display Manager failed to start. At first I thought it was because of some problem with VMware, but now I can see that it was more likely a deep dependency in X11 server which runs the graphical interface.
Wow this has gotten way easier thanks to cooksillustrated.com, sweethome.com and consumerreports.org. Subscriptions are required for the first and last but totally worth it:
- Tramontina. This is the Walmart.com has a knockoff Allclad triple-ply pans that can last a lifetime. For a limited time $109 gets you a set of 8 (really four pots).
- Tramontina Restaurant quality no-stick pans. Same deal, really excellent pans and they are only $40 at Walmart.
- Lodge Stew pot. We use our Lodge pot more than any other pot for stews and they are super inexpensive.
Knives are probably the other item people neglected item, but there is nothing that lasts longer and make a difference when cooking:
- Victorinox. While you can get a set of knives, if you look cooks illustrated, you can get an amazing knife set for very little if you are willing to put up with a little less uniform look. The 8″ chef knife, the 3.5″ paring knife are the two goto’s that we use all the time and are super reasonable.
- Mercer Cullinary Millenia 10-inch bread knife.
- Chicago Cutlery steak knives. While you can get your flatware at Ikea (I’ve done it), the knives are a different story. At $4 a knife, these are beautiful walnut and really high quality.
- Chef Choice knife sharpeners. Even with great knives, they need to be straightened. It turns out that most of the time you do not want to remove material, but just unbend an invisible turn in your knives, while expensive the Chef Choice are the goto.
Next up is the bedding, while it seems silly, having a bed that lasts 10 years is actually a great investment and now with direct-to–consumer lines, it’s never been easier to avoid all those mattress scams. The state of the art are the new foam mattresses, they do not need a box spring and shape to your body
- Thread and Needle. This is a startup that offers direct only through Amazon. At $550 for a full size, they are a great deal with a 10-year warranty and 100-day return policy.
- Protect-a-Bed AllerZip. It is frightening to think about bed bugs and this simple wrap isolates the bed from those nasty things.
- Zinio Tufted Premium Platform Bed. If you don’t want to go to Ikea, the folks at Zinio make a nice bed but also have a nice slatted bed for just $200.
Suppose you want to use Gsuite, but for low volume accounts you do not want to pay the $10/month. Here is what to do:
- Sign up for Gsuite for your vanity domain.
- Go to Gsuite/Apps/Mail/Routing and add a custom route with an additional recipient which is a free personal gmail account. At this point, you are getting
Well most of the time you have to use some sort of VPN to get back into your machine, but you can also use your Synology for SSH port jumping (if you dare!). Here’s how:
- Enable SSH with Control Panel/Terminal & SNMP/Enable SSH Service
- Enable Home folders with Control Panel/User/Advanced/Enable User Home. You have to scroll all the way down on Advanced to see this option.
Ok this has to be the most undiscoverable feature in any product:
- Google Slides doesn’t have a ruler so if you have a bullet and want to remove it, you still have a hanging indent. The solution is to go the line and hit
backspace there is an invisible character there which controls the indenting.
- One mystery I haven’t solved is that in a Google Slides master, I can’t seem to figure out a way to get rid of bullets. You can add them to a text box, but in normal mode, clicking again on the bullet button removes the bullet, but in master mode it just shows you all the bullet options.
Then the make geek thing these days, mechanical keyboards.
There are an incredible number of guides from keyboard.co, but here are some models to consider, it is nice to have them backlit I find, but here is a list of top models to consider sorted by price:
- WASD Keyboard Tester. If you are really not sure get the $16 keyboard tester which is a single key of each type so you can see what you like.
- Corsair K70 Lux RGB. This is a “budget” keyboard relatively speaking at $130, but you can get it in the really common formats the Cherry Blue (clicky and loud but good for developers), Cherry MX Brown (the middle road, has tactile bump for feedback but is silent) or Cherry MX Red (completely linear good for gaming). It is much cheaper than the K95 particularly if you do not need all those macro keys for gaming. They also the new Cherry MX Rapidfire which is even less force than the Red.
- WASD CODE 87-key. Most developers don’t need 104 keys and would rather have a shorter one especially for programmers, so that is why the CODE was invented. Also, WASD has all the additional other types with Cherry MX Green (the blue with more actuation force, so you don’t have to click all the way down and the MX Cherry Clear Keyboard ($150) which is the Cherry Brown with more actuation force so you can be faster. When you are typing a lot, the MX Cherry Clear is a great tradeoff, not as clicky as the Blue but not linear as the Cherry Red. Get the Cherry Green if you want some click and are not in a shared office space. Or get dampeners if you want a little more quiet. These are $15 from Amazon (plus a $6 keyboard cap puller) but you have to install them yourself or $30 if WASD installs them for you.
- Das Keyboard. This is the keyboard that kind of started it all, it is 104 keys and $180 so it is quite expensive but generally considered the “category creator”. About $200.
- Topre Realforce 87U. ($244 at Amazon) This uses the Topre keys from Japan and is considered by some the absolute best. Brian Kernighan for instance uses the HHKB which is a 60 key model that uses the Topre. This is a whopping $250 on Amazon so the prince of keyboards, but it has their magic electro capacitive keys which are supposed to be amazing.
The main thing is the many different types of keys that are the heart of a keyboard, so here’s a decoder ring and a technical one plus a gamer POV. Or if you love curves, you can see actuation graphically at WASD.
The tl;dr is that if you are gaming, the Cherry Red is nice, if you are alone, then the Cherry Blue is great and the compromise is a Cherry Brown which has the bump but isn’t noisy. Calvin loves the Clear and that’s probably the other one to try for developers doing lots of typing particularly if you are in a shared office space:
- Cherry MX Black. 1984. Stiff at 60cN activation force, so used for point of sale terminals and not really for typing.
- Cherry MX Red. 2008. 2mm to actuation point. Low activation force of 45 cN so good for gaming as you want to spam keys fast. I’m using one at work and it really smooth so no feedback, nice for gaming and certainly better than a $10 dome keyboard or an Apple wireless keyboard. We have a Razor Vengeance K70 with Cherry MX Brown and it is definitely quiet and smooth but doesn’t have the feedback for fast typing.
- Cherry MX Brown. 1994. They have a 45 cN but adds a tactile bump so you know you have hit them but are silent. It a good middle of the road option with light touch but tactile. The nice thing about the tactile feedback is that you don’t have to press all the way down so it can be faster.
- Cherry MX Blue. 2007. These are 50cN but have both a tactile bump and an audible click. They are definitely louder and not as good for an open office. We have these at home and they definitely are clicky and quite satisfying but loud. We have a Razor Black Widow which has a knockoff of the Cherry MX Blue with same 50cN actuation but high activation point and cheaper (just $80).
Then there are some less common keys but the Clear and Green are ones to look at:
- Cherry MX Silent Red (aka Pink). These are quieter versions MX Red with 45cN actuation.
- Cherry Clear. Stiffer version of the Cherry Brown with a tactile bump but still silent. If you typing a lot the harder actuation prevents mistyping (the thing I absolutely dislike about the MacBook Pro 2016 where I’m generating errors all the time). The nice thing about the clear is that you don’t bottom out as much.
- Cherry Green. Stiffer versions of the blue at 80 cN so you have the same advantages as the clear, but again it is noisy!
Then there are some other considerations:
- Keycap material. The main thing is that as the key wear out, you do not want uncoated ABS, ideally you want the PBT variety but these are more expensive.
- O-ring sound dampeners. These are Made by WASD and reduce the bottoming so they are quieter.
Finally the size of the keyboard is an issue:
- 104 key. These have the number keypad. This is mainly useless unless you have Ubuntu are are using the keys for Compiz Grid, but you can remap them.
- 87 keys. Way smaller and the mouse is closer, this is a good portable size.
Then finally there are:
- Backlighting. Some consider this a nerd feature, but I type enough at night that I love it. It’s the main reason to get the WASD Code over the WASD v2 by the way, the WASD v2 isn’t backlit.
Man it took me a month to figure this out. I’ve loved Synology for a long time, but for the first time I’ve had a serious problem. We have has the 1812+, the 2413+ and I got a little 216j. Everything was working fine until. But then I got an upgrade message and tried to upgrade the DSM (their operating system) and all hell broke loose.
Here is a list of symptoms:
- The system did boot and showed the user interface, but could not see either of the two mirrored hard disks.
- I tried a host of other disks (3, 4, 6 and 10TB from Seagate and WD) and without fail none of them were recognized. No matter what, non of the drives would ever spin up, they would just click.
- I did insert two 1TB Samsung SSDs and it worked flawlessly.
- If you put in just a single disk, then it would not get to a web interface
- With the SSDs in, it would not upgrade the DSM.
At first, I thought it was because the hard drives were from old RAID systems and perhaps had old RAID information on there. But even with a wipe on a Mac, this didn’t help at all. I also spent lots of time trolling through old posts and Google queries until I hit the magic “blinking power on light or blue light of death”.
One totally confusing thing about Synology is that it actually needs a hard disk to boot and it writes the operating system there. So when you load up, it is too steps update the firmware and then update the disks.
Rebuild for Synology
Synology has just the worst overall diagnostics, but here is what to do if you have trouble:
- Remove all the hard drives and boot the system. If the blue power light stays blinking it means that it did not make it through power on self test and the motherboard is bad. Send a trouble ticket into Synology and get an RMA. if it takes a minute or so and you get a solid blue light and a beep then you have successfully POSTed.
- If it does boot, then you likely have a bad firmware installation. If the installation fails then you get your firmware into a state where it sometimes boots and sometimes doesn’t. So the best thing to do it to start all over again. Synology does write information onto its disks (like all good RAID systems), so you can recover.
- Here’s the trick, the full reset instructions on Synology site are wrong! It says, press the reset wait for a beep, then immediate press again and wait for the next beep. That is wrong! You need to wait for three beeps. The way you can tell if this worked is to load the Synology Assistant onto your PC or Mac and see if it says in Status
Not Configuredbut if it says
Not Installed you have not fully reset it.
- Now you should get to a web page, look at the Synology Assistant for the ip address or use the default DNS names
diskstation.local. You then go back to the Synology website and download the correct operating system image.
- Now you put all your disks back in and it should recognize them. If you failed, then go back to #3 and try again.
Ok for the true power geek, here are the USB C accessories you need. The main things to do are to look for cables with USB-IF certified and e-Marker chips and take the advice on sorting your cable capabilities by length since USB C cables all look the same but have very different speed differences. Don’t be the guy who thinks he is getting $30 100 watts power delivery and 40Gbps speed when he buys a $3 cable that is really 15 watts and 480Mbps.
- Silicon Power Swivel C80 USB C/USB A USB 3.0 flash drive. What a great idea, it has a solid metal ring so is durable like the Kingston’s we love, but it is reversible so perfect for the transition to USB C. At $70 for two 64GB drives it’s a real bargain. Not super fast, but super convenient particularly with the key fob ring.
- Cable Matters 72 watt USBC/USB c charger. Ok, this gives you 60 watts out of the single USB C so it can power our MacBook Pro. While not quite the 87 watts that you get with the big MacBook Pro 15 charger it has some huge advantages: a) half the price, b) it uses a standard extension cord and is only two prongs, so easy to go international, c) it has four USB 3.1 traditional ports for charger your cell phone etc.
- USB C female to USB A male adapter and USB A/USB 3.0 male to USB C male Adapter. This is super confusing, but there are two cables you need. It’s confusing, but the first cable let’s you plus a new USB C cable into an old USB A charger or computer like the charger above. The second let’s you plug an old USB A cable into a new USB C charger or computer.
- uNi USB C 100 watts/480Mbps 6m with USB-IF certified e-Marker cable. These are half the price of Apple’s and pretty reliable. Just be aware that not all USB C cables are created equal. Our little algorithm is all cables we buy at 2 meters are the same, they are 100 watts/480Mbps. Whatever you get make sure it says it has a true e-Marker chip that manages the power cable (yes power cables in USB C have chips that tell the charge device which pins do what, in USB C, a pair can carry 5-20amps at 5 volts) and they have different transmission rates (480Mbps USB 2 speed, 10Mbps USB 3.1 and 40Mbps at Thunderbolt 3)
- Skiva USB C 100 watts/10Gbps 1 meter USB 3.1 Gen 2 cable. then all cables we buy at 1 meter are special, they are full poe delivery and USB 3.1 data rates. These by the way are half the price of Apple at $12.
- Cable Matters Thunderbolt 3 40Gbps USB-IF certified 0.5m Cable. Get these in 0.5 meter are 100 watts/40Gbps. Otherwise you will get hopelessly confused. As an aside, 0.5 meters is the maximum length for 40Mbps.
- Apple Thunderbolt 3/USB C to thunderbolt 2 adapter. Ok, on the list of things if you have older Thunderbolt 2 disk drives, this converts from 40GBps Thunderbolt 2 to 20GBps Thunderbolt 2 and the mini-Displayport compatible connector. Note that an identical looking cable does USB C to miniDisplayPort, but this is not compatible. Argh!
Well if you don’t just want to go to your neighborhood Starbucks, what if you want really great coffee. Well, we tried olive reviews online, so why not try coffeereview.com. This is one of those sites where I’m not sure how legit it is, but for a $15 investment, it’s worth it to find out. They mainly review small roasters around the country and the single origin coffees seem pretty interesting. Here are some in the good value category.
That is not $60 for four ounces, but more like $15 plus $5 shipping for 8 ounces:
- Topeca Coffee. Well this is probably the first thing I’ve ever mail ordered from Tulsa. Their Finca El Gauma is top rated at 94/100 points. This is a “seed-to-cup” vertically integrated family. business, they have farms in Colombia and retail in the US.
- JBC Roasters. A local Madison Wisconsin family owned business, we tried the Tano Batak Sumatra