DVDplusRW.org – The ultimate unofficial

DVDplusRW.org – The ultimate unofficial DVD RW resource siteHere are some notes on why you can’t see DVD+RW on certain players…

Any DVD player should be able to play back a DVD+RW disc, after identifying it. However, some DVD players falsly assume that, after identifying a disc as not being a dual layered DVD-ROM (which is the case for example when a DVD+RW disc is loaded), that there must be a single, fully reflective layer on the disc. These players then start looking for this fully reflective layer, which is not present, and then claim that there is a disc error, or that no disc is loaded in the drive.

These players are physically capable of reading the lower reflective layer of a DVD+RW disc (which after all is equal to the layer on a dual layered DVD-ROM disc), but will not start looking for it because they assume a fully reflective layer must be there.

Thankfully, a work-around has been made available to fool these non-standard behaving players to read DVD+RW discs. Instead of writing a DVD+RW identification bitsetting to the disc, a DVD-ROM bitsetting is being written. When such a disc is loaded into these players, they start looking for either one of the two possible reflectivity parameters of a disc, and will then successfully read the disc after recognizing the lower reflectivity layer.

The DVD+RW Command-line Bitset Utility can be used by any DVD+RW that is equiped with at least version 1.37 of the firmware. It can only be used in Windows NT, 2000 or XP, but not in Windows 95, 98 or Me.

You can also change the default value of the DVD+RW drive for as long as your Windows session is active. When you change the setting of the drive, the DVD+RW drive will write to blank DVD+RW discs in this mode, no matter the software, until manually changed by this utility, or the computer is rebooted. However, if the DVD+RW disc had been originally formatted or written to in a different mode, this original mode will be retained for the disc, until it is reformatted again.

To change the setting of the DVD+RW drive to the DVD-ROM standard , enter:
dvdplusrwbitset -dvd-rom-spec -unit d:
To change the setting of the DVD+RW drive back to the default value , enter:
dvdplusrwbitset -dvd+rw-spec -unit d:

Here are some notes of

Here are some notes of buying a road bike.

Depends on what you want to spend. Turns out the most important thing is to get a good fit on a bike. That means go to a good dealer (Gregg’s Bellevue Cycle or Montlake Cycle in Bellevue are two of the best in the non-exotic range). You can get a good sense of what folks think by checking out www.roadbikereview.com. A quick sort by number of reviews and then by ratings, tells you what’s in the mainstream.

There are basically two big choices to be made. I haven’t studied bikes under $1,000 list much, so I’m not much of an expert below this, but I could research it if you want:

Price range.
1. $1000 or so. That is really the minimum for a bike that you’ll have great fun with and which you won’t want to replace. Best bikes here are probably the various Cannondales. They are all pretty much the same in that range, so just figure out a price point and get a nice aluminum frame. Aluminum is strong, but has the reputation of being harsh.

2. $2000 or so. This is the deluxe version. You’ll never have to get another one again, given that road bike technology is pretty stable these days. Best bikes here are probably at www.Litespeed.com or www.Trekbikes.com. With in this category, the frame material diverges.

2a. Carbon Fiber. This is the geek’s dream and very space age so naturally I have one :-). The standard one here is the Trek 5200. Trek essentially owns most of the major brand names in bikes, they pretty much have the market. You can think of them like Honda. The 5200 is the bike that Lance Armstrong and his team uses stock to win the Tour de France, so they are very popular. Now is a good time to buy as the models are changing. There are a couple of choices here, but the basic model is about $2,400 at Gregg’s (in Bellevue, pretty much the largest and in many ways the best place to buy). The reputation of carbon fiber is light, but feels a little dull. I’m happy to bring my bike along and you can try it, it is essentially the Trek 5200 but I had fun on ebay and shopping around the world building it.

2b. Titanium. This is responsive, super durable and say just a tad heavier than carbon fiber, but it is more responsive. Feels the most like traditional steel and will last a lifetime. The high volume quality company here is Litespeed. They make a range, but the Classic, is well, Classic. The “drool” bike is the Vortex, but that is more like $4K, so probably out of your range.

Other minor details.
If you are really going to enjoy road biking, getting a good pair of biking shorts is really essential. Nothing helped me more to do 3-5 hours in the saddle than getting a pair of Castelli VTP2K shorts. You can get a set on ebay for about $120. It sounds expensive, but baby it is worth it.

Depends on what you want to spend. Turns out the most important thing is to get a good fit on a bike. That means go to a good dealer (Gregg’s Bellevue Cycle or Montlake Cycle in Bellevue are two of the best in the non-exotic range). You can get a good sense of what folks think by checking out www.roadbikereview.com. A quick sort by number of reviews and then by ratings, tells you what’s in the mainstream.

There are basically two big choices to be made. I haven’t studied bikes under $1,000 list much, so I’m not much of an expert below this, but I could research it if you want:

Price range.
1. $1000 or so. That is really the minimum for a bike that you’ll have great fun with and which you won’t want to replace. Best bikes here are probably the various Cannondales. They are all pretty much the same in that range, so just figure out a price point and get a nice aluminum frame. Aluminum is strong, but has the reputation of being harsh.

2. $2000 or so. This is the deluxe version. You’ll never have to get another one again, given that road bike technology is pretty stable these days. Best bikes here are probably at www.Litespeed.com or www.Trekbikes.com. With in this category, the frame material diverges.

2a. Carbon Fiber. This is the geek’s dream and very space age so naturally I have one :-). The standard one here is the Trek 5200. Trek essentially owns most of the major brand names in bikes, they pretty much have the market. You can think of them like Honda. The 5200 is the bike that Lance Armstrong and his team uses stock to win the Tour de France, so they are very popular. Now is a good time to buy as the models are changing. There are a couple of choices here, but the basic model is about $2,400 at Gregg’s (in Bellevue, pretty much the largest and in many ways the best place to buy). The reputation of carbon fiber is light, but feels a little dull. I’m happy to bring my bike along and you can try it, it is essentially the Trek 5200 but I had fun on ebay and shopping around the world building it.

2b. Titanium. This is responsive, super durable and say just a tad heavier than carbon fiber, but it is more responsive. Feels the most like traditional steel and will last a lifetime. The high volume quality company here is Litespeed. They make a range, but the Classic, is well, Classic. The “drool” bike is the Vortex, but that is more like $4K, so probably out of your range.

Other minor details.
If you are really going to enjoy road biking, getting a good pair of biking shorts is really essential. Nothing helped me more to do 3-5 hours in the saddle than getting a pair of Castelli VTP2K shorts. You can get a set on ebay for about $120. It sounds expensive, but baby it is worth it.

DVD Player compatibility. This is a mess!

DVD Player compatibility. This is the site that talk all about DVD compatibility with DVD+RW drives. I used Ulead’s studio to create my first DVD. It was a little complicated, but got it to work, but my Toshiba 6200 won’t read it. A quick query with google got me to this site and it talk about needing to fix the bit setting on the drive so that it knows it is a 2-layer DVD that only has one layer. Typical programming goof.

Anyway, this leads, to downloading mydvdbitset.exe which has to have the latest firmware for my Sony drive.

DVD Firmware has the latest firmware information plus a querying tool to see what I have. Turns out there is a problem with Sony not having different firmware so that these bitset utilities don’t work.

ASPI Drivers. That leads to having to load the ASPI drivers which Microsoft no longer includes in Windows because of licensing issues with Adaptec.

So, you need to load the ASPI driver, so you can check the firmware date, so you can load the firmware, so you can use the compatibility tool. Sigh. What a mess.

BlogSkins.com Just what I need

BlogSkins.com
Just what I need dynamic templates…Yoohoo!

So you’ve got a blog of your own. Congratulations. And you’re oh so proud of your witty and insightful posts. But you’ve got one problem — you suck at design. In fact, you suck so much that people skip right over your site because the bad color scheme combination and small font sizes hurt their eyes. That’s where BlogSkins.com comes in. Take the designs from some of the best people around the blogging community, and instantly and easily apply them to your own Blogger-powered site.

Remove the Spyware, Banner Ads

Remove the Spyware, Banner Ads and Bitrate limit from Kazaa
How To Remove the Banner Adds & Spyware from Kazaa

What is Spyware ?

What You Will Need

Kazaa
Ad-Aware
cd_clint.dll

Install Kazaa.

Install Ad-Aware then use it to scan your computer for spyware. Remove all the spyware found including the spyware that Kazaa put on your system.

Open Up C:program files\Kazaa (or where kazaa was installed to)

Unzip cd_clint.zip and copy cd_clint.dll into the Kazaa program folder.

Open Up the C:Windows\system
Folder and Copy cd_clint.dll into that folder also.

(Windows NT, 2000 or XP users: if you experience problems, try also placing the fake spyware into the system32 folder that is located in the windows folder)

Use Ad-Aware to scan you computer for spyware again. When it finds the fake spyware (cd_clint.dll) add it to your ignore list so Ad-Aware doesnt delete the fake spyware. This is very important becuase kazaa needs to see the fake spyware to work.

Open up kazaa. If there are no adds it means that the spyware has been successfully removed.

How To Remove the Bitrate limit from Kazaa

Open the start menu and click run.
Type in regedit then click OK.
When the window opens up click edit then find.
Type in limitbitrate
When the search finishes double click on limitbitrate
Under value data change 1 to 0.
Click OK then close the rigistry editor.

You are finished. You can now download high quality mp3’s from kazaa

tools Bloggar – a cool

tools Bloggar – a cool little program that sits in your system tray so you don’t have to go all the way to the taco stand to post. It does a whole lot more and is also available in French, Portugese, and Spanish for all you foreign guacamoles. Check out the screen shot.

I’m still on the prowl for more blogging tools. This has three of the most useful, the right click, the button on the IE toolbar and then a windows program that you can do locally.

w.bloggar is a cool utility that has a nice HTML editing environment in a windows client. So you aren’t using the web based tools of www.bloggar.com